~ New Aluminum Roof Skin ~

Here Comes the New One Piece Aluminum Roof

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"Get out of your comfort zone!"

Soooo, what do you say we cover this thing up with something more permanent than an old tarp!!

I wanted the new roof skin to be continuous from end to end, folded an inch over the sides and extending well over the front and back for proper drainage. I never intended to re-use the original galvanized so I put the word out I was in search of a large roll of aluminum.

I was contacted by a person in Edmonton who had this aluminum roll in their warehouse about 800 miles from my home, but as luck would have it, I was scheduled to go there for work in a few weeks. So after the work project was done, I bought it, loaded it into the back of my pickup and took it home with me. It stood on end in my garage for a year and a half before I got to put it on.

Click on Images to Enlarge

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Old Roof Skin:

After rolling it up and rolling it back out dozens of times, I have finally rolled it up for the last time! I have waited a long time for this!

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The Kickoff!!:

One swift kick and awayyyyyy it goes! Great photo by my son-in-law! Out with the old in preparation for the nice new one piece aluminum roof skin.

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New Roof Skin:

It has been standing on end in the garage for long enough. I have a decent day for weather for a change, lets get it all rolled out and installed.

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New Roof Skin:

OK, I wrestled it out of my garage and laid it down here to start. This sucker is heavy!

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Sitting In Place:

Son in law gave me a hand. We managed to grunt it up a pair of stepladders and onto the roof.

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Ready To Roll:

Here's what it looks like from the top. As long as the wind doesn't pick up, I'll be in business.

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Ready To Roll:

Closeup of the roof skin roll. Ain't that purdy? Mmmmmm - shiny! 98" wide giving it 1" over both sides of the roof.

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Rolled Out and Ready:

Gotta measure and make sure the overhang is the same on both sides. This is critical, overlaps have to be the same

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Rolled Out and Ready:

That flip in the front kinda reminds me of some of the hairstyles guys used to have back in the 50's and 60's!

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Start The Side Laps:

Roof framing is exactly 96" Roof skin is 98". I made a line 1" in from the edge both sides, And started bending it over.

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Bending It Over:

Using a pair of 3" hand benders, I made a continuous fold along the entire length of both sides.

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Folding The Ends:

After making the initial bend, I used a white rubber mallet to finish folding it over.

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Back End View:

I left a little extra past the back end to make sure I had enough to do the curve. It will get trimmed to length later.

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Ready To Curve The Roof:

Recognize this setup? Same makeshift bender I devised to do the top of the siding on both ends. It worked well!

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Bending The Curve:

The roof is thick, so I had to get extra leverage by drilling holes in the pipe and inserting a jack handle. I inserted a piece of plywood as a work surface.

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Bending The Curve:

Lower view of the plywood. The purpose of having it in there was to give a surface for the pipe to rotate on and hold it all above off the back of the siding.

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Bending The Curve:

My son in law to operated the other end while we cranked hard on the handles to bend the roof skin around the pipe. It had to be done evenly.

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Ready To Fasten - Top View:

Bends are done both sides. It was getting breezy, so I placed the lumber up there to prevent the roof from blowing off until I could get some staples in there.

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Finished Curve View:

There's the end result after removing the homemade bender. A nice even contoured curve to match the framing.

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Finished Curve View:

From another angle, you can see how it matched the framed end and the siding. I left plenty of overlap.

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Curved End View:

A trim across the bottom and it is ready. The same bend process was done to the front.

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Sides Preparation:

I raised the skin up onto blocks and applied a generous bead of elastomeric caulking to the underside, and the top of the siding before stapling it down.

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Sealant Applied And Ready:

Blocks are out - caulking in place, ready to fasten, then finish the bend with the mallet. This is the point where I stapled down the sides to the top of the walls.

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The Pucker Factor:

Although I reduced the roof peak at the back, there was still a little compound bending taking place.

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The Pucker Factor:

Viewed straight on, the pucker is minimal. The key here now is to staple it down while centering the pucker as I go.

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Trimming The Excess:

There is a wood strip in the framing to fasten to. Careful measuring here before trimming to make sure my staples hit it.

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One End Fastened Down:

This was slow and tedious, but I got it to lay reasonably flat in spite of the peak in the roof.

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One End Fastened Down:

Better view of the end in place. Finish moldings will cover the joint and staples. That too will be all sealed.

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Top End View:

Same thing viewed from higher - not too much of a wrinkle, but a bit is visible. I followed the same process for the back.

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Overall View:

May as well show you the whole thing from up in the air a bit. It is all fastened down now and totally sealed up.

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Corner Closeup:

I used a pair of aluminum downpipe crimpers to create the curve at the corners. Same story as the siding.

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Corner Closeup:

Those crimpers worked well for this task. All in all, I am very pleased with this.  No way this can ever leak here.

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Overall View From The Back:

Ahhh - nice and shiny and reasonably smooth. I'm happy with the results. It is now totally waterproof.

Alrighty! We have a lid on it now! No more leaky tarps!

It has been a long time coming to get it to the point where I didn't have to concern myself with the typical wet coast weather. I sure did experience a lot of rain in the course of the time I spent outside repairing the old trailer. The tarps were essential, but they caused a heckuva lot of extra time and effort to keep things dry. If anyone chooses to undertake a similar project, one piece of advice. Find an inside warm dry place to do it.

Now we move on to a bunch of misc little various details, mostly inside, putting things together.